Ciao in Reno Closes

On February 12 we posted about lunch at Ciao. Since we enjoyed our lunches at Ciao we were sorry to receive an email announcing the closing of Ciao.

Tim Herriein was the executive chief at Ciao and is also the owner and executive chief at Fredrick’s Fusion Bistro and Sushi Bar (www.fredricksbistro.com/) in Incline Village, Nevada. We were told by a server that Tim Herriein will continue to be involved with a new small plate restaurant at the Ciao location beginning in April 2008.

Small plate restaurants are a new trend. Small plates in the form of Middle Eastern and Greek mezze, Chinese dim sum, Japanese sushi bars, Spanish tapas, Mexican antojitos, Venetian cicchetti, and all the street snacks of Southeast Asia boast centuries-old traditions. Chefs use the "global tapas" as inspiration for creative small plates that are designed to be shared by as many diners as possible. Here is an interesting link: http://lifestyle.msn.com/FoodandEntertaining/TheWineLife/Article.aspx?cp-documentid=687141.

For a clue to the name of the new restaurant, see the words at the bottom of the Ciao email:
“bite-bite-bite-bite . . .”

Disappointed, we nonetheless look forward to the new restaurant.

Mesa Grill in Las Vegas

Having seen Bobby Flay so often on the Food Network and having one of his cookbooks, Mesa Grill was an easy choice. We called for a reservation, committed an error on the Caesars Palace automated reservation line, were routed to a live person, and were told we could not get a reservation to Mesa Grill for the evening we wanted. The concierge of our hotel secured the reservation for us.

Mesa Grill in Las Vegas is located by the sports book area at Caesars Palace. It is noisy and crowded; however the design accommodates a crowd. There is a wood plank design with multiple levels and textures, yet the look is still sleek, notwithstanding all the wood. Although early, we were given a table right away and were greeted immediately and served water and bread. The bread with cranberries was delicious. The tables for two are close together, but the ambient noise allows for some privacy. Our table was rickety, but the nonplussed waiter without hesitation dove below the tablecloth to shore up the base of the table with a napkin.

Taking a quick glance at the food menu, we ordered a Calera 2006 Pinot Noir for $56. This was at the low end of the wine menu (typical for Las Vegas). We tried to order a goat cheese “QuesoFundido” with rajas and blue corn tortilla chips with the wine but were advised that no food order could be submitted in part. Apparently the cooking was timed out of the kitchen. We expressed a desire to sip our wine and look at the menu. We then duly ordered everything but dessert. The “QuesoFundido” was worth waiting for, although we would have preferred it earlier. A featured item on the menu was “Spice Crusted Swordfish Steak” for $34. This was described to us by our waiter as “quite spicy but very good.” Side dishes at $8 included “Sweet Potato Gratin and Smoked Chiles.”

We ordered pork tenderloin and lamb chops. Both were well prepared and delightfully spicy. With each entrée was tamale with a different polenta-like filling with each entrée. Both dishes had unique and very delicious southwestern spices.

For dessert the waiter recommended the lemon meringue crème brulee with biscotti. We shared one of the best crème brulees we have ever had. On return visits we will plan ahead to return to Mesa Grill.

With tip and wine, we paid $204 for a delightful meal for two.

Mesa Grill, 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard (Caesars Palace), 702-650-5965, www.mesagrill.com.

David Burke for Valentines in Las Vegas

Valentines’ night is a difficult time to judge a restaurant. Often the menu is reduced and the restaurant more crowded than normal. Nonetheless, it is an experience in gourmet diversion, especially in Las Vegas.

We were in Las Vegas on Valentines Day and decided to go to David Burke for Valentines’ dinner. Chef David Burke has been featured in numerous publications for his culinary skills and business acumen. He has been named Chef of the Year by several prominent publications. Recently, he was nominated as Best Chef: New York City by the James Beard Foundation. Burke has partnered with E-Brands Restaurants to create this restaurant.
The David Burke restaurant is in the Venetian Hotel on the Strip. Getting to the Venetian Hotel, finding the valet parking full, and parking on the seventh floor of the garage made things less than relaxing. We called to say we were delayed by the parking mess, and the hostess was gracious. From the car to the restaurant (by the Blue Man Theater) was like negotiating subway traffic in New York. Once we arrived, the hostess had ready a rose and a table. The restaurant is sleek and modern with an interesting Humpty Dumpty motif. There is a water feature between the bar and the restaurant. We were seated, both on one side, at a table with the water at our backs. That evening the restaurant was a happening place. It was noisy, busy, and good for people watching.

We were served water, given bread (hot in tiny soup pots with butter on pink blocks of Himalayan rock salt), and asked for a drink order all by different people, but efficiently and courteously. The menu was fully available. Featured menu items include “Crisp & Angry Lobster Cocktail,” “Burke in a Box” (five appetizers created daily by the chef), “Heirloom Tomato, Eggplant and Buratta Mozzarella,” “Lobster Steak” (with curry fries, cilantro, and candy grapefruit) and “Salt Rubbed Kurobuta Pig Steak.” The featured dessert of the restaurant is the “Cheesecake Lollipop Tree.”
We started by ordering a bottle of wine. The wine list was Las Vegas pricey. We selected a Quva Syrah at $52, which was at the low end of the list. We enjoyed the wine and it was not served with disdain.
The specials for that night were basil poached rock shrimp, Florida stone crab claws, braised black bass, and bone-in dry aged rib-eye. We ordered beef short ribs and a bone-in veal filet from the menu. We had lobster bisque and a squash soap to start. The soups were served with flair and were tasty. The squash soup was surprisingly thin but still well-seasoned and tasty. Both meat dishes were well presented and very well seasoned. The veal on the bone was a bit well done for the advertised medium rare. For dessert we skipped the cheesecake lollipop tree and had a chocolate delicacy we enjoyed very much.

With tip we were out the door for $215. It was slick, noisy, and fun. We enjoyed the creativity and originality of the ambiance and the menu.

The restaurant includes a bar and lounge, with seating for 50; a main dining room, with seating for 250; and space for up to 100 guests in the private banquet facilities.

David Burke, 3355 Las Vegas Boulevard (in the Venetian), 702-414-7111, www.davidburkelasvegas.net.

Ciao for Lunch in Reno

When Ciao first opened, we tried it for lunch but found it pricey for good but not great food. They did not offer lunch for a while but have recently reopened for lunch Tuesdays through Friday. Recent visits have given us a new perspective.

The lunch menu is creative and fun: "Crispy Calamari Fries" and "Ciao's Famous Cauliflower" are some of the antipasti; an unusual salad is "oven roasted pear, ricotta, and organic butter lettuce salad, green goddess dressing;" and for piatti: "spicy braised Berkshire pork shoulder flatbread sandwich" and "veal meatball sandwich with smoked provolone cheese and pepperoncini." Only one item on the menu is over ten dollars ("Niman Ranch hanger steak with fries and garlic aioli"). We have tried most of the menu items and have found them to be well prepared.The fish sandwich of the day is always good and has varied from calamari steak to ahi tuna with various aiolis. The coffee is quite good. They also offer a variety of pizzas which we look forward to sampling.

We like Ciao's ambiance but notice it is often cold and drafty. At lunch it is quiet and an excellent place to have a quiet conversation. When we were there, the art of Victor Lysakov was featured on the walls and provided interesting viewing. It is a great place for a business lunch if you can remember not to conduct your business there on a Monday.

The service is efficient and friendly. Wait staff have been eager to please.

Ciao is located at 7111 South Virginia Street in Reno. The telephone number is 775-851-9463 (WINE). The web site is www.ciaoreno.com.